Keep on rollin' (Week 28)

"It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them." I can hardly picture Ernest Hemingway on a bicycle, but if he didn't actually ride one he was at least quite passionate about the idea. Around World War I, he became an avid fan of European bicycle racing, especially in the Basque country. For my son Nic and me , the country would be 1,000 miles (1600km) of blacktop stretching from Port Angeles, Washington to San Francisco. We would discover just what it meant it be sweating up hills and coasting down them on the very steep and dramatic terrain in between. After catching the Coho ferry from Victoria, we began our adventure of riding 19 straight days down the Pacific Coast of the United States. That meant 4 days in Washington, 7 days in Oregon and 8 days in Northern California. We were hardly the first to cover this distance. Although some people we met were astounded when we told th...